What is squalane oil and how does it benefit skin? The original version of this article was reviewed by Dr. Debra Jaliman, dermatologist In the world of skincare ingredients, squalane oil ranks as one of the most effective for dry skin. Though often labelled an oil, it is quite different to many traditional plant and mineral oils as squalane benefits the skin by: 1. Preventing moisture loss & restoring suppleness by working like the skin's own oil 2. Helping neutralise damage caused by UV light 3. Helping protect against lipid peroxidation which can damage pores 4. Feeling lightweight & non-greasy 5. Deriving sustainably from plants when listed as vegan skincare 6. Less likely to irritate the skin or trigger an allergic reaction What you can expect: What is squalane oil? Is squalane vegan? Squalane benefits Squalane vs squalene How to use squalane oil What's the best squalane oil for the face? What is squalane oil? It is an emollient, which means it’s the type of ingredient that works very much like our skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Squalane is a modified form of squalene – and squalene is a key player in our skin’s own sebum, so our skin can instantly recognise squalane and know how to make the most of its benefits. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, made up of hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons include petrolatum and mineral oil so squalane is the main pick from the plant world, which is great if you want to avoid petrochemicals. Is squalane vegan? As squalane comes from squalene, it’s good to know that squalene was traditionally taken from shark liver oil. But today, the majority of skincare brands choose a plant-derived, sustainable source of squalane, like olive, wheat bran, rice bran and amaranth oils. Paula's Choice uses vegan sources of squalane from olives and sugarcane. Squalane benefits Along with its moisturising benefit, squalane oil is also an oil-soluble antioxidant: when the skin is exposed to UV light, squalane works with other antioxidants in the skin to neutralise the damage of oxygen molecules. Since it’s an antioxidant, squalane can help protect the skin’s sebum against lipid peroxidation, a process that damages both the skin surface and deep in the pore lining where oil originates. In fact, lipid peroxidation inside pores can change the skin’s oil composition until it becomes inflammatory, linking this process to acne formation. Squalane’s sebum-like ability does help moisturise, but its lightweight nature prevents a greasy feeling. Other lipids in the skin (like ceramides & cholesterol) recognise squalane so it can visibly repair the skin barrier, a process that can help with a younger, less reactive complexion. Squalane vs squalene: what’s the difference? The difference is that you have to hydrogenate squalene to make squalane for skincare. Hydrogenation is where you add hydrogen to a less stable fat (like squalene) to make it more stable. This process means squalane is overall better for the skin because squalene degrades faster when exposed to light and air. The research says that skin’s natural levels of squalene remain consistent from childhood to our early 30s, when it starts to significantly decrease and leave our skin looking and feeling drier. How to use squalane oil You can use squalane oil every day as part of either your morning or nighttime routine. During the day, its antioxidant properties help neutralise various environmental stressors and at night, it lubricates the skin surface so you wake up softer and smoother. Add squalane oil into your skincare routine by using first your cleanser, toner and exfoliant – then applying any squalane-including treatments and moisturisers from thinnest to thickest texture. Squalane oil in its pure form is surprisingly non-greasy and can easily absorb into the skin’s surface layers. Try adding a few drops of pure squalane to your regular moisturiser or eye cream whenever your skin is extra dry. What’s the best squalane oil for the face? Although pure squalane is an option, we do recommend using a formula that blends squalane with other skin-replenishing ingredients for the full cocktail approach. Because caring for skin is never as simple as one ingredient. Think “better together” and look for: Squalane and retinol to nourish the skin, with the added benefit that squalane helps keep retinol stable in the presence of oxygen. Squalane and vitamin C to smooth, brighten and enhance the skin’s environmental defences. References for this information: 1. Molecules, January 2009, pages 540-554 2. Advanced in Food and Nutrition Research, Volume 65, 2012, pages 223-233 3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2013, pages 59-66 4. Free Radical Research, April 2002, pages 471-477 5. ACS Open, July 2017, pages 3,989-3,996 6. Indian Journal of Dermatology, May-June 2016, pages 279-297 7. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2006, pages 2,430-2,437