Do skincare products expire?

Person looking at the back of a product

Yes, skincare expires and it's important to know when it goes out of date so you don’t accidentally put your skin health at risk.

But we’ve all been there. You’re holding onto a discontinued lipstick or you just refuse to throw away that half-used expensive moisturiser you bought a year ago. Even Paula is guilty of the lipstick – she has at least a dozen she can’t bear throwing out. This article is a reminder for all of us on the Paula’s Choice Research Team too!

The truth is: hanging onto beauty products past their prime isn’t doing your skin any favours and, in fact, might actually be causing the very problems you’re trying to get rid of. Skincare shelf life is dependent upon a few things – including what kind of product it is, how it is packaged, where you keep it and when you first use it.

What you can expect:

How to know if your skincare is expired

Products that have expired can change in colour but this isn’t always an indicator that they’re unsafe. Retinol and vitamin C, for example, can change colour over time but still be safe to use. There are also other signs that show your skincare is out of date: if the texture has separated and is now runny or lumpy, if it starts to smell strange or if it feels different on your skin than it used to (especially grainy or streaky).

Another basic guideline is that cream or liquid products get contaminated much faster than powders.

Lastly, if your product is labelled "preservative-free" you should definitely be more mindful of expiration dates. Without some kind of preservative system, contamination happens quickly (think how long lettuce lasts in your fridge).

Is it okay to use expired skincare?

A study published in the Annals of the National Institute of Hygiene found that the contamination in expired cosmetics (or those used by more than one person) was considerably higher than in cosmetics before their expiry. The study found potentially pathogenic bacteria in most cosmetic samples, which can cause or worsen disease!

“Interestingly, there was no colour, smell or consistency change spotted in the samples that would indicate their contamination. So even if you can't see or smell any difference, be aware that the cosmetic you are keeping past its expiry date might be harbouring risky bacteria!” says Francesca Cambuli, our Research & Education Manager.

They may seem harmless but expired beauty products can compromise your skin barrier. A 2013 study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science evaluated the make-up routines and habits of women. The results were more than a little eye-opening. 70% of women in the study used some type of expired product – mostly eye make-up (mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow). The researchers sampled the eye make-up and found that 67% was contaminated!

At Paula's Choice, we give you the facts so you know what's safe. If expired make-up and skincare products are having a negative impact on your skin, let's make sure we know when best to bin them!

PAO = Period After Opening

Many beauty products carry a Period After Opening symbol (a number followed by an M and an open jar icon). The PAO symbol explains when you should throw a product away after you’ve opened it, for example a “12M” recommends throwing the product away 12 months after first use. But it is still good practice to check on consistency, smell and colour. Consider using a permanent marker to write out the date you first opened the product on the bottle itself (this can be more helpful than relying on the PAO date anyway).

All of this is especially important for skincare because in addition to the safety aspect, the product will eventually start to deteriorate if it contains antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients (as it should). The best skincare comes in safe & smart packaging that protects its formula from air and light. Even the best bottles can't make skincare last forever!

Make-up & skincare shelf life

While products vary in their expiry dates, so do the conditions they’re stored in. There are a few good practices to follow:

  • DON’T expose the formula to air & light
  • DON’T handle the formula itself within the bottle
  • DON’T let the product sit in your car on a hot day
  • DON’T share the product with anyone else

If you avoid the above, you can safely follow the longest use-by date.

Make-up
  • Mascara (regular or waterproof) and eyeliner: 3 – 6 months (always throw away dry mascara – never add water to get more use out of it)
  • Cream, liquid or stick foundations and concealers: 6 months – 1 year
  • Powder-based products (including blush, bronzer, etc.): 2 – 3 years
  • Lipstick, gloss and pencils: 2 – 3 years
Skincare
  • Cleansers: 1 year
  • Toners: 6 months – 1 year
  • BHA and AHA exfoliants: 1 year
  • Facial or body moisturisers and serums: 6 months – 1 year
  • Lip balm: 1 year

The DOs & DON’Ts of making skincare last

Use these guidelines to prolong the shelf life of your products.

  • DO store products in a cabinet or drawer.
  • DO wash your hands before using.
  • DO tighten/secure the cap after each use.
  • DO consider how climate and humidity shorten shelf life.
  • DO throw away eye products after you've had an eye infection.
  • DO follow the expiry dates on SPF, breakout products and prescription products.
  • DON'T buy products packaged in jars of any kind. Jar packaging isn’t ideal for a number of reasons, as it carries a high risk of contamination due to dipping your fingers in the formula.
  • DON'T store products in direct sunlight
  • DON'T share your make-up and skincare with others.
  • DON'T add water or saliva to thin out or remoisten products.
  • DON'T pump your mascara into the tube.
  • DON’T forget to clean the cap or lid if you drop it on the floor. Use soap and water or rubbing alcohol and dry thoroughly before replacing.
  • DON’T store products in the fridge. Skincare formulas are designed to withstand the average fluctuations of temperature in your home but not long-term heat or cold storage as it shortens their lifespan and stability. There is an exception: water-based ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) formulations/products. Research shows that storing pure vitamin C in a fridge can actually help prolong stability and delay colour change.
  • And DON’T forget, if it smells off, looks gunky or the texture has changed significantly, err on the side of caution and bin it!

    References for this information:

    Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, May 2021, pages 1-10

    Annals of the National Institute of Hygiene, January 2017, pages 191-197

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2013, pages 375-380

    Journal of Food Engineering, December 2012, pages 298–303; and November 2003, pages 21-29

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